Correct posture plays a vital roll in golf. It puts you in position for balanced, powerful and consistent ball striking. With the correct posture, you can swing the club through impact with the little or no manipulation for consistent results.
The correct posture in golf puts you in an athletic setup which helps you create effortless power. It also creates the angle for you swing.
Correct Golf Posture
1. The right hand golfer should use the following setup:
Set your feet shoulder-width apart. The outside of your shoulders should fit inside your insteps.
2. Flex your knees only slightly for good balance. Your knees should be over the balls of your feet and your quads should be tension free.
3. Bend at the hips. Never allow your spine to slouch.
4. Your spine should be angled forward toward the ball, enough to create a right angle with the shaft of the club. Your spine will become the hub of your swing.
5. Make sure that your weight is centered on the balls of the feet. Never position too much weight on your heels or toes.
6. Tilt your spine slightly to the right. This side tilt keeps your head behind the ball, which is critical for power.
7. For driving, set 60% of your weight on the right foot and tilt behind the ball slightly more than irons.
Remember, the setup writes the script for the swing. Your posture forms the foundation for your swing and good posture will make the swing simple and easy to repeat.
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Monday, August 2, 2010
Sunday, August 1, 2010
Reduce your carbon footprint
Global warming occurs because carbon dioxide (CO2) and other gasses released by the combustion of fossil fuels are building up in the atmosphere and preventing the sun's heat from escaping back into space.Many scientists, as well as the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency, are concerned that global warming could lead to serious changes in our climate, causing more dangerous storms and hurricanes, rising sea levels, and the spread of tropical diseases.
Here are some tips that you can do your part at home:
Drive a fuel-efficient car. If your new car gets 10 mpg more than your old one, you can reduce CO2 emissions by 2,500 pounds a year.
Walk, bike, car pool or use mass transit. If you leave your car at home two days a week, you'll reduce CO2 emissions by 1,590 pounds a year.
Weatherize your home. Insulate walls and ceilings, caulk and weatherstrip around doors and windows, and wrap your water heater in an insulating jacket to reduce CO2 emissions by up to 4,000 pounds a year.
Use energy-efficient appliances. If you replaced your existing refrigerator with a high-efficiency model, you'd reduce your CO2 emissions by 220 pounds a year. Energy-efficient appliances are now available for microwave ovens, stoves, dishwashers and computers, as well.
Reduce, reuse and...Recycle? You guessed it. Buying food and other products in reusable or recyclable packaging can reduce CO2 emissions by 230 pounds a year, while recycling all of your home's waste newsprint, cardboard, glass and metal can reduce emissions an additional 850 pounds a year.
What do the Numbers on the "Handicap" Row of the Scorecard Represent?
Most golf scorecards contain several rows of information. For example, a scorecard will always have the "Hole" row, the numbers 1 through 18 corresponding to the holes being played.
Beneath that will likely be at least three more rows (let's say, for example, "Red," "White," and "Blue;" or "Forward," "Middle," and "Back") that identify the tees being played and the yardages for each hole on the course.
There is usually also a line identified as "Handicap," a row of numbers that appear to be in random order. What do those numbers mean? How are they used by the golfer?
The "Handicap" line of the scorecard rates the holes for use by golfers who carry a handicap index. The handicap index is used to produce a course handicap, and the course handicap tells golfers how many strokes they get to take off their gross scores to produce a net score.
Remember, the purpose of the handicap system is to allow golfers of different playing abilities to play fair matches against one another. If I have a handicap of 27 and you have a handicap of 4, you'll beat me every time if we are using our gross (actual) scores.
The handicap system produces a net score by allowing the weaker player to reduce his score - to "take a stroke" as it's called - on designated holes.
The "Handicap" line of the scorecard is how those holes are designated.
The hole identified as "1" on the handicap line has been rated the hole where a golfer is most likely to need a stroke in competition against a better golfer. The hole identified as "2" on the handicap line is the second-most likely hole where a stroke will be needed, and so on.
The number of strokes you are getting is compared to the handicap line. If you get 4 strokes, then you find the four highest-rated (1 being highest, 18 being lowest) holes on the handicap line, and take one stroke on each of those four holes. (Remember, by "taking a stroke" we mean that you get to reduce your score on that hole by one stroke.)
If you get to take 11 strokes, then you find the 11 highest-rated holes on the handicap line, and take one stroke on each of those holes. If you get to take 18 strokes, then you get one stroke on every hole.
What if you are taking more than 18 strokes? Then you get to take two strokes on some (possibly all, depending on your course handicap) holes, one on other holes.
Let's say you get to take 22 strokes. Obviously, you'll get at least one stroke on each of the 18 holes on the course; but you'll also get a second stroke on the four highest-rated holes on the handicap line of the scorecard. So on the holes designated 1, 2, 3 and 4 on the handicap line, you'll take 2 strokes each; on the other holes, you'll take 1 stroke each.
And if you get to take 36 strokes, you'll take 2 strokes per hole.
And that's how the "Handicap" line of the scorecard is used.
Now, how do you know how many total strokes you get to take in order to make use of the handicap line? That's simply a function of course handicap. If your course handicap is 18 and you're playing just to post a score for handicap purposes (you're not playing against someone in a match, in other words), then 18 is how many strokes you get to take.
If you are playing against someone in a match, then the golfers play off the low handicap of the group. For example, let's say there are three golfers in the group; one is a 10 handicapper, one is a 15, one is a 20. The 10-handicapper will play at scratch (no strokes), the 15-handicapper will get 5 strokes (15 minus 10) and the 20 handicapper will get 10 strokes (20 minus 10).
Beneath that will likely be at least three more rows (let's say, for example, "Red," "White," and "Blue;" or "Forward," "Middle," and "Back") that identify the tees being played and the yardages for each hole on the course.
There is usually also a line identified as "Handicap," a row of numbers that appear to be in random order. What do those numbers mean? How are they used by the golfer?
The "Handicap" line of the scorecard rates the holes for use by golfers who carry a handicap index. The handicap index is used to produce a course handicap, and the course handicap tells golfers how many strokes they get to take off their gross scores to produce a net score.
Remember, the purpose of the handicap system is to allow golfers of different playing abilities to play fair matches against one another. If I have a handicap of 27 and you have a handicap of 4, you'll beat me every time if we are using our gross (actual) scores.
The handicap system produces a net score by allowing the weaker player to reduce his score - to "take a stroke" as it's called - on designated holes.
The "Handicap" line of the scorecard is how those holes are designated.
The hole identified as "1" on the handicap line has been rated the hole where a golfer is most likely to need a stroke in competition against a better golfer. The hole identified as "2" on the handicap line is the second-most likely hole where a stroke will be needed, and so on.
The number of strokes you are getting is compared to the handicap line. If you get 4 strokes, then you find the four highest-rated (1 being highest, 18 being lowest) holes on the handicap line, and take one stroke on each of those four holes. (Remember, by "taking a stroke" we mean that you get to reduce your score on that hole by one stroke.)
If you get to take 11 strokes, then you find the 11 highest-rated holes on the handicap line, and take one stroke on each of those holes. If you get to take 18 strokes, then you get one stroke on every hole.
What if you are taking more than 18 strokes? Then you get to take two strokes on some (possibly all, depending on your course handicap) holes, one on other holes.
Let's say you get to take 22 strokes. Obviously, you'll get at least one stroke on each of the 18 holes on the course; but you'll also get a second stroke on the four highest-rated holes on the handicap line of the scorecard. So on the holes designated 1, 2, 3 and 4 on the handicap line, you'll take 2 strokes each; on the other holes, you'll take 1 stroke each.
And if you get to take 36 strokes, you'll take 2 strokes per hole.
And that's how the "Handicap" line of the scorecard is used.
Now, how do you know how many total strokes you get to take in order to make use of the handicap line? That's simply a function of course handicap. If your course handicap is 18 and you're playing just to post a score for handicap purposes (you're not playing against someone in a match, in other words), then 18 is how many strokes you get to take.
If you are playing against someone in a match, then the golfers play off the low handicap of the group. For example, let's say there are three golfers in the group; one is a 10 handicapper, one is a 15, one is a 20. The 10-handicapper will play at scratch (no strokes), the 15-handicapper will get 5 strokes (15 minus 10) and the 20 handicapper will get 10 strokes (20 minus 10).
Tuesday, July 20, 2010
Dealing with Employees' Personal Problems | Leila's House of Corrections
Employees are only human and sometimes their personal problems can creep into the workplace. Whether it's marriage, drug or health problems, learn how you should handle such delicate issues as a trusted manager
Performance Reviews |Leila's House of Corrections
Are you daunted by the prospect of performance reviews? Giving negative feedback can create anxiety, especially for first time managers. By preparing in advance, controlling the setting and following up, your employees will know you are dedicated to their success.
Tuesday, July 13, 2010
The Wide Range Of Alternatives In Bonsai Shaping
Growing bonsai is not just a hobby, it truly is a form of art, and this is demonstrated by the way in which you decide to guide and shape your bonsai plant. Without a doubt, one of the most important attributes of a bonsai plant is its shape. Bonsai trees can be coaxed into practically any form that you favor. Yet there are a number of shapes that are more prevalent than others. Following is an overview of some of the most popular styles.
Cascade Style: This is among the most striking shapes in bonsai trees. The cascade shape is reminiscent of the appearance of trees growing on mountain tops or over the water, and is exceptionally attractive. The top of the tree gently flows to the side and extends to the bottom of the pot or a little lower.
Forest Style: This is a more highly developed method of growing bonsai trees. It entails the artistic arrangement of several bonsai plants in just one pot. The trees differ in height, with the end result being that of a forest. In general, there are at least three trees that make up the forest, and it’s generally an odd number of plants.
Formal and Informal Upright Styles: Upright styles, both formal and informal, are also a familiar technique for shaping bonsai plants. Trees in either of these forms are trained into an upright position with a tapered trunk. The informal style comprises the popular bends and curves that differentiate it from the formal style.
Literati Style: The most common shape of bonsai plant could be the literati style, and this is what most people picture when they think of a bonsai. The literati shape comprises a smooth trunk with very few branches. The branches of this design are all located near the top. The bottom part of the trunk is typically stylishly twisted.
Slanting Style: You will find similarities between the slanting style and the formal upright with regard to the straight trunk. The distinction lies in the way that the trunk is slanted away from the base, either to the left or the right.
Even though those are the most commonly seen styles for shaping a bonsai tree, you could find a different shape which you like. But it is always advised to start with a standard style as you first attempt to shape a bonsai. When you have mastered one of those, then it is possible to insert some special touches to impart uniqueness to the plant. The fact is, bonsai is a form of art, not just a plant.
Cascade Style: This is among the most striking shapes in bonsai trees. The cascade shape is reminiscent of the appearance of trees growing on mountain tops or over the water, and is exceptionally attractive. The top of the tree gently flows to the side and extends to the bottom of the pot or a little lower.
Forest Style: This is a more highly developed method of growing bonsai trees. It entails the artistic arrangement of several bonsai plants in just one pot. The trees differ in height, with the end result being that of a forest. In general, there are at least three trees that make up the forest, and it’s generally an odd number of plants.
Formal and Informal Upright Styles: Upright styles, both formal and informal, are also a familiar technique for shaping bonsai plants. Trees in either of these forms are trained into an upright position with a tapered trunk. The informal style comprises the popular bends and curves that differentiate it from the formal style.
Literati Style: The most common shape of bonsai plant could be the literati style, and this is what most people picture when they think of a bonsai. The literati shape comprises a smooth trunk with very few branches. The branches of this design are all located near the top. The bottom part of the trunk is typically stylishly twisted.
Slanting Style: You will find similarities between the slanting style and the formal upright with regard to the straight trunk. The distinction lies in the way that the trunk is slanted away from the base, either to the left or the right.
Even though those are the most commonly seen styles for shaping a bonsai tree, you could find a different shape which you like. But it is always advised to start with a standard style as you first attempt to shape a bonsai. When you have mastered one of those, then it is possible to insert some special touches to impart uniqueness to the plant. The fact is, bonsai is a form of art, not just a plant.
Things Beginners Need To Know About Bonsai Soil
Do I require specially prepared soil so that I can develop bonsai trees and plants?
More and more people are growing bonsai trees and plants. This has led to many more bonsai specialty shops and websites talking about bonsai supplies. If you are just starting to grow bonsai, you may have the urge to buy everything you ever find to grow your bonsai. However, you may not need all the things you see advertised. This is particularly true with bonsai soil.
You can buy bonsai soil at really great costs. If you’re a bonsai purist or know one, you may think purchasing bonsai soil cheating.
But as a beginner you wish to make your very first bonsai grow perfectly, or at least as well as possible. Considering how long it takes to develop bonsai, this isn’t just a quickie point to do. Growing a successful bonsai plant or tree means developing a normal schedule of watering, transplanting annually, with regular care and attention. That may be the only way you’ll have a stunning bonsai for years of satisfaction and pride.
But Is Bonsai Soil Costly? The price of bonsai soil shouldn’t be much a lot more than purchasing regular potting soil used for home plants. Now ingredients for bonsai soil are various than those of regular house plants. Your bonsai will need the ’special recipe’ to grow and thrive.
Either way if you decide to buy bags of bonsai soil or make your own, you need to prepare the pot or container before you add the soil and your bonsai. You want to have superior drainage so the roots are able to get nutrients without sitting in water. Roots that sit in water, drown and eventually rot. That is why it is important for good bonsai soil to have excellent drainage so the water and nutrients can flow past the roots. Excess water can then leave through the drainage holes in the bottom of your pot or container. One way of making sure the drainage is good in the soil is to mix two soils together-one finer than the other. This increases the percolation or drainage of the soil.
More and more people are growing bonsai trees and plants. This has led to many more bonsai specialty shops and websites talking about bonsai supplies. If you are just starting to grow bonsai, you may have the urge to buy everything you ever find to grow your bonsai. However, you may not need all the things you see advertised. This is particularly true with bonsai soil.
You can buy bonsai soil at really great costs. If you’re a bonsai purist or know one, you may think purchasing bonsai soil cheating.
But as a beginner you wish to make your very first bonsai grow perfectly, or at least as well as possible. Considering how long it takes to develop bonsai, this isn’t just a quickie point to do. Growing a successful bonsai plant or tree means developing a normal schedule of watering, transplanting annually, with regular care and attention. That may be the only way you’ll have a stunning bonsai for years of satisfaction and pride.
But Is Bonsai Soil Costly? The price of bonsai soil shouldn’t be much a lot more than purchasing regular potting soil used for home plants. Now ingredients for bonsai soil are various than those of regular house plants. Your bonsai will need the ’special recipe’ to grow and thrive.
Either way if you decide to buy bags of bonsai soil or make your own, you need to prepare the pot or container before you add the soil and your bonsai. You want to have superior drainage so the roots are able to get nutrients without sitting in water. Roots that sit in water, drown and eventually rot. That is why it is important for good bonsai soil to have excellent drainage so the water and nutrients can flow past the roots. Excess water can then leave through the drainage holes in the bottom of your pot or container. One way of making sure the drainage is good in the soil is to mix two soils together-one finer than the other. This increases the percolation or drainage of the soil.
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